Flights to Lukla had not been going for about six days now, due to the weather, so I wasn’t sure how things would go for our scheduled flight at 6am this morning. But the skies cleared in Lukla and before I knew it we were onthe small plane and taking off. Half an hour later we landed in Lukla without any fuss.

In Lukla my guide Ram was reunited with his brother Prabhu, who will work as porter. After breakfast at The Nest, we set out for Phakding, a three-hour walk away. Walking through Lukla it appeared more polished than 12 years ago, but it still has that “here commences the adventure” feel.

We walked along the trail with the Dudh Kosi, the milk river thundering below. It was warming up quickly and I was glad to have chosen a loose shirt for the first day. It only got warmer as we descended, ascended and descended until we got to the lodge in Phakding. Stage 1 completed. Now a whole afternoon for reading, photography and resting. Bliss.